Eleuthra stylee!!

Anyone would be forgiven for thinking our life is all work and no play at the moment, I mean a month on a Bahamian out-island, lolling around in the sun, surfing, spear-fishing, cooking bread, Yes, that's right we baked our bread and you know what we aren't that bad at it!! I hear parent rejoice - "at least they are learning something as they travel"!! Based on this high stress lifestyle that we have gladly adopted into our day to day chores (what am I saying we don't have chores, work with me though) you would think there is little else to write about on our last month in the sun, resting our weary selves on beaches like this one.


WRONG!!

Eleuthra is an incredible island and the people so welcoming and friendly. We spent Thanksgiving at a lady called Kim's house, who cooked an AMAZING Turkey roast with all the trimmings, including a Bahamian addition of Macaroni Cheese on the side to complete. Everybody was in great spirits, even cracking out the guitar and having a little sing-song. The evening was wrapped up with a game of croquet on a friends front lawn. Being the only 2 Brits we turned up heads held high, after all, this is our sport shouldn't we just simply be good? NO!! Couldn't be more wrong, I for one spent the first half of the game on the first hole, left far behind the rest of the field, or lawn as I guess you should say.

We have seen some incredible sights, our friends Dan and Lauren took us to Preachers Cave where the first settlers of Eleuthra arrived from Bermuda, escaping religious persecution by the English. The Cave was used by the settlers as a place of worship with the large rock in the center being used as an alter. We were also lucky enough to swim in a little known ocean hole about 1km from the sea when it was incredibly clear and so beautiful. Possibly one of the best things about the whole experience on this Island is that there is little if no tourism. All that we did cost us nothing, they are just little gems talked about by the locals. There are not many places in the world where that happens!

Transport was one of our favourite Eleuthra quirks. There is no public transport. So how did we get about I hear you ask. Buy a car? No. On bike? Once, and it was hilly. Lifts from friends? Sometimes? Then How? Hitch hiking. Neither of us have ever hitched before, it never seems a good idea in the UK, you see those people stood on the hard shoulder of the M4 with the wind howling and horizontal rain lashing at them and think however expensive public transport may be it is worth it somehow! Bahamian hitching is a completely different and far more pleasant experience. For a start the temperature is in the mid 20's and sunny. Our first attempt was for a journey of about 100miles. We thought it would take all day but no. We waited no longer than 10 mins and even got picked up by a couple of priests on their way back from a funeral. Most of the time we stuck out our hand, I say we, but it was mostly me, apparently people are more likely to stop for a girl, I just think the boys were being lazy, anyhow, we never waited for more than 5 minutes for a ride, ever. We would hop into the back of the drivers truck and bang on the roof when we were at our destination. Piece of cake! And cheap as Chips, free!

I was just about to sign off, and have remembered something very important which happened.......Jiro built a bench, all by himself, well almost, I recommended the structural piece - don't tell him I told you! It is made completely of drift wood and now sits very proudly with Tom and Diesel at Surfers Haven.


And so here ends our Bahamas trip. But we will be back. We bought a small plot of land so we can enjoy the haven for a long time to come. Will miss you Diesel.

Lion hunter- www.youtube.com/watch?v=-6PegwkMXQc

We met a guy who lives up the road from us, who has been coming to Eleuthera for the last 22 years.
He's called Maurice and he's from South Carolina, so his name is pronounced "Moh-reece", or just Mo or Mojo.
Anyway, Mo invited Ceri and I to grab a spear and join him on a lion hunt. The lion fish not the lion lion.

Maurice is an interesting chap, with a remarkable desire to shake things up and educate people.
The extermination of Lionfish is just one of his current projects. (You can see more at lionfishhunter.com and loads of videos on youtube- http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-6PegwkMXQc) He is also a fiery anti-establishmentarian, in the sense that he intensly distrusts the American government and has some interesting theories about who really controls the world. Mo is teaching himself to be self-sufficient, so that he can be as immune as possible to global financial meltdown,
and can be prepared to survive by catching fish and living off the land. He has built himself a simple wooden house surrounded by jungle and small soil patches to grow vegetables.

Maurice doesnt do things by half. When he was 22 years old, he became a radical christian and would yell fire and brimstone from a megaphone and tell people they were going to hell. He decided to be celibate for 8 years and once fasted for 22 days!! He isnt a Christain anymore, but he still has the same energy and passion for what he believes in, which among other things, is that all lionfish in the Bahamas must die.

So, back to the lionfish. Maurice told us that the lionfish is not native to the Bahamas. In fact the Lionfish, is alien to the whole Atlantic ocean but somehow in the recent past it has been artifically introduced to the Bahamas seas. One theory is that people with lionfish in aquariums have simply released them into the wild. With no natural predators and a staggering rate of reproduction the lionfish population has boomed. The problem is that they eat all the other indigenous fish, and therefore seriously threaten the diversity and health of the coral reefs around here.

Fortunately, Lionfish taste good. Mo reckons they are the tastiest fish in the sea, but I think thats slight propaganda. These Americans have never tasted a proper cod, chips and mushy peas. Anyway, in the name of saving Planet Earth, and helping the beautiful reefs out here, Maurice has decided it is his duty to eat as many lionfish as possible and get as many people doing the same.

6 of us went out for the first hunt, armed with spearguns. We piled into 2 small tin boats with outboard engines and headed out into the crystal clear turquoise water. (Incidentally we passed Lenny Kravitz house- he was born on Eleuthera and often plays jam sessions at the local bar.)

The thing about spearfishing for snapper, grouper or mackeral, or most fish is that it is very, very difficult. You have to spot a fish big enough to spear, then hold your breath and dive 20, 30 or 40 feet under the water. You have to equalise your ears to prevent over-pressurizing
, and then chase down the fish, all of which can swim a lot faster than we can.
The range of the spears guns is about 6-10 feet, and the longest most divers can hold their breath and swim is about a minute. So the best tactic is to chase the fish into a corner, against a rock to get your best shot. It is not easy... even when you do hit one. Maurice,
who is an excellent spear-fisher and diver shot a 2 foot spanish mackeral last week.
The spear went straight through the fish and out the other side. The fish simply swam away with Mo's spear- he chased for 100 metres but the fish managed to dislodge the 3 foot spear and escape to freedom.

Spearing lionfish, thankfully, is entirely different. Its a piece of cake due to this amazing fact:
A fish with no natural predators shows no fear, and makes no effort to hide. While every other fish on the reef scuttles between rocks and coral, always looking for shelter, Lionfish sit smugly at the bottom of the ocean, fluttering their spiky manes, ruling over their conquered reefs.
Nothing demostrated more the fact that they do not belong in these seas, than their complete fearlessness of being eaten.

Well, times are a-changin' Mr Lionfish! We speared 17 lionfish in 2 hours. I managed to get 2 of the biggest ones, by spotting them first, diving down to about 3 feet from the fish, and shooting my spear through their fat body. They do not flinch or move a muscle. One of the fish even gave me second shot, after I missed with the first. Our friend Joey managed to get stung. He has only himself to blame. When you spear a lionfish, you make sure you keep the wriggling body as far away from you as possible.
The venom on their spikes results in extremely painful stings. Joey speared a lionfish, swam for the surface with his spear outstretched, fat lionfish writhing on its end. "Theres 2 more down here" yells Joey, as the lionfish slides down the spear which he is clutching vertically above his head. "AAAAAAArrrrrhhh!!!!" The pain is severe and scalding hot water the only remedy.

Once back on land, Maurice gave a demonstration on how to prepare the fish for eating. Have a look on You tube for this- just type in "lionfish hunter".
We made our lionfish into a really tasty "fish dip", a Southern dish, similar in concept to tuna mayo, but way better for our planet earth.

On the Road

Few people in the UK realise that there is anything worth studying about our gun-toting, burger-guzzling, neighbours across the pond. But in fact, America for all her faults, fallacies and fatness is a fascinating place. As holder of a degree in American Studies, I am qualified to do very little, so it was with great satisfaction that Ceri and I embarked on our (mini) American Roadtrip, a subject I know something about.

As part of my American studies degree, I wrote an essay on the "American Roadtrip" genre in literature and film. It is a genre as real and relevant as any in American literature, as anyone who has read John Steinbeck's "Grapes of Wrath", Jack Kerouac's, "On the Road" or even seen "Thelma and Louise" will know.

Americans started heading across the USA as soon as they found about the all the mind-boggling goodies in the West. First it was gold and land, and no pesky indians were going to stop them. During the Great Depression, survival, food and jobs pulled them westwards. The depression created a whole breed of men, the original hobos, who would jump on and off trains that zigzagged the nation, escaping poverty in search of opportunity and adventure.

By the 1960s, heading west was less about finding fortunes in the goldmines, planting a stake in a plot of land, or escaping famine and more about being in a place symbolic of the American Dream, ultimate freedom and opportunity. California became a magnet for musicians, hippies and surfers, and who can blame them... apart from all that symbolism crap, the place is unbelievably gorgeous, an outdoor paradise boasting redwood forests, snowcapped mountains, canyons, deserts and countless miles of Pacific coastline.

Ceri and I had 5 days, a convenient window created by badly connected flights between Cosa Rica and the Bahamas. It was only enough time to scratch the surface of Southern California's Pacific coast area, from Northern San Diego to Orange County, but enough time to whet our appetite and get us planning the Big Roadtrip. (Applications for RV guests welcome to apply. Expected dates sometime between May-July 2009. GSOH driving, cooking skills required.)

In no other place on earth do I ever want to drive a 26 foot RV. But America is all about supersize and with 7 lane highways and neighbourhood roads wider than the M1, I didnt even scrape a wing mirror! If you want an understanding of American size (and fatness) go to McDonalds, or Wendy's, Taco Bell, Burger King, etc. etc... in the USA, and take a friend. You need 2 hands just to pick up the gallon of coke you get given, without even asking for the large meal! Of course we were too refined to go to McDonalds, so this is all hearsay.

Our 26 foot RV looked like a little toy campervan next to the monsters some Americans retirees jaunt around in. You have to see one to believe it, but I'll try to describe. Imagine a full sized luxury coach, maybe 50 feet long, 10 feet wide, all tinted windowns and shiny chrome. Like some kind of Transformer robot, the side panels slide outwards to create more interior space, and a living room about 20 feet wide, laden with leather couches, wide screen TVs and full kitchens and bathrooms. Jutting out of one side will be a huge awning, giving acres of shade, and on the roof will nearly always be a satellite dish for the TV.

Within this collossal house on wheels invariably lives a couple of retired Americans (modern day Hobos?), exploring their country and living the good life. If Gordon Brown needs a solution to dwindling pensions and an aging population, he could do worse than buy a load of RVs, and one-way tickets to the USA.

This is a fact: Ceri+ 26 foot of American RV + fridge full of food + box of wine + perfect weather + good surf = FUN. Add to the mix the pleasure of surfing with dolphins in crystal clear turquoise Pacific ocean, building fires on our clifftop spot in San Clemente state Park, while watching the sunset into the Pacific and you will get an idea what an amazing time we had.

If you ever get the chance to do an American Roadtrip, DO IT!

The land of the Chocolate Milk Sea

Where to begin with Costa Rica? Hmmm....

The defining and perhaps most memorable feature of this chapter of the trip has been the rain. Fortunately coming from the oh-so-nontropical climes of the UK this was something we are fully prepared for. We donned our poncho's (mental image: me in a turquoise poncho and Jiro in an orange one) walked the streets of our first port of call, a town called Jaco (Ha-co) on the central Pacific coast of Costa Rica.

Upon arrival in Jaco it was dark, and raining to an extent we can only imagine in the UK - Yes that's right, there are places in the world where it rains harder! We disembark the bus nowhere near our hotel and attempt to get a taxi. Easier said than done as we have surf boards and forgot to buy straps! Several taxis went past and nothing, too small :o( Drenched we finally arrived at our hotel. All is not lost as it is dinner time, out come the ponchos and we take a stroll (dodging the giant puddles) to a restaurant. Jiro has discovered a new favourite meal. Even better perhaps than Lomo Saltado (Peruvian dish of stir fried beef with rice and chips) called Casado. This is a chicken dish with potatoes, rice and re fried beans. "Food heaven" he exclaims!!

Unfortunately Jaco is not the safest of destinations and petty theft is common so we decided not to take the camera to the beach, also it was pi**ing it down so the photos would not be worth it and we don't have a matching poncho for the camera!! The surf in Jaco was interesting! Very tidal dependant and as a result of the rain the water looked not far off Chocolate milk. With rumours of crocodiles my eyes darted the surface making sure we were not on the locals lunch menu. As a result I am sure I didn't do much surfing, mostly just bobbing!!

Jiro got a great morning of surf in at Playa hermosa, the same beach as he mentioned below with the Croc attack. Eeek! I stayed well clear....sensible me!!

On account of the tropical storm we headed north to Guancaste, to a town called Tamarindo. An up and coming tourist resort, but yet to build concrete roads. This made he journey entertaining as we fought rain, mud and pot holes the size of meteorite craters!! Our residence here were fantastic. Private pool (luxury!) and a hammock on our porch.

The area is a nature reserve for nesting leather Back turtles. Unfortunately we didn't see one, I only found the tracks where one had been the previous night. It was huge! At least a metre in diameter. The beaches were vast and spectacular.

The surf was far from world class, but it gave me the chance to catch a few waves that I felt weren't out to drown me, obviously maintained my Croc watch vigilantly!!

As the surf wasn't the greatest we hooked up with a couple from California, Mike and Laura, who are also escaping the world and travelling central America, hired a car and headed to a few beaches further south. Down the same terrible roads, a few hairy moments where we thought we might get stuck in the mud. "Shot-gun steering not pushing"!!

This is Avellanas, a beach I attempted to surf twice. No river mouth so Croc watch was called off for the day, but unfortunately a mean shore break which I simply couldn't get passed. Very frustrating. The only wave I managed to catch kindly deposited me on a pile of rocks too shallow to paddle over and rough to walk over. Damn it!! Bring back croc watch beach!!!

We headed to Playa Negra, one of the most consistent spots on the coast. At first the waves were no-where to be seen so we sought out a restaurant. And what we found was an old guy from California running a hotel which looked as though it hadn't had guests for the last 5 years.....but he cooked the biggest sandwiches I have ever seen!! After lunch and WOW! Biggest surf we had seen in weeks. Some sets were coming in double overhead. I took up beach watch. Not for a lot of money was I getting in! This time I had Laura as company whilst Jiro and Mike headed into the mouth of the monster! Their opinion differs from my description here. Whislt I gossiped idly on the beach Jiro caught some great waves, also in his words "got his butt kicked a few times" but had a great time in the water. Happy Days!!

The fun of leaving Tamarindo began at 3am, we had booked a bus ticket to take us back to San Jose (Capital of Costa Rica) at 3:30am. We tramped across town laden with bags to find the bus station deserted. So we walked to the other end of town (just in case) to find out that the bus does indeed go from a random street and not the bus station and has left already. Uh-Oh, could this be another Ceri and Jiro travel adventure/disaster? Back to our hotel we go, passed a now very confused security guard and book ourselves onto a small flight to San Jose later that morning from the local airport. More sleep. Hooray!!! The airport was interesting, perhaps the smallest I have ever been to.

This is the terminal, Jiro is in the departure lounge!

and the runway

We made a little friend at the airport:

The views from the tiny plane, which in order to get on we had to be weighed (surely I get extra luggage allowance for being small?!?!), were spectacular, far more impressive than a bus journey in the dark!!

Arriving safe and sound in San Jose we checked into our flight only to be approached an hour later to be told our flight was cancelled. Fears of missing out on our RV trip flashed before our eyes, but alas, all was OK as the airline were going to transfer us to another flight (a direct one) landing at the same time in LA, give us dinner vouchers and a $200 credit each with the airline. Did we mind? Ummm, no!!! Long wait and several card games later, we get on our flight to LA. Yippee!!!!!

The latest...

Most days lately are great, and Im feeling pretty lucky! But today is an especially GOOD day, because we have just made plans that will hit 2 life goals in one fell swoop.

1. Surf trip to California in an RV (in the dream it was an A-Team van, but I shall compromise for this beautiful machine)

2. Surf trip to Bahamas (Eleuthera island)

We decided that October/November is too risky in terms of weather and surf conditions in Central America. Recently it has rained non-stop and the surf has been crap. So we decided to go to Hawaii for a month.

..... Then Megan Kelly, a friend from my Japan days who teaches in the Bahamas emailed me out the blue and said "come and visit me on Eleuthera island!" Her friend Tom owns this place: http://www.bahamasadventures.com/surfers_haven.lasso so we should have a cheap place to stay directly overlooking the surf!

We found some great flights via California, so we will roadtrip around San Diego for 5 days and then stay one glorious month in the Bahamas before arriving in Vancouver in early December.

We will make it to Nicaragua... just got to time the surf season just right.

Life is good.

Amendment to the "itinerary"!

Slight amendment to the plan, we are off to the Bahamas via Los Angeles! Life is full of tough decisions; we decided this slight detour yesterday after ditching the idea of going to Hawaii, like I say "tough".

So the new route is this: Costa Rica to L.A. to the Bahamas to Whistler to Nicaragua to ???? who knows!!

Got to go lie in the hammock after making all those BIG decisions I am tired......

Ceri gets Published!

Just a quick one! A few days ago I got an email from a news website asking for my photos of Kelly Slater for one of their articles about him winning his 9th World title. Check it out. My photos on a real website! OK, so it's not the BBC or anything but I think it's exciting!!

http://my.nowpublic.com/sports/kelly-slater-wins-9th-world-title#comment-215934

For those who couldn't figure it, I am cacsmith and right now by photos are the ones on the left of the story!! :o)

Rain, crocodiles and one legged surfers

Now you'd think we would be used to constant non stop rain coming from the UK, but Costa Rican rain is something special. It has rainied constantly for the last 4 days. The roads are flooded, rivers are swollen and thats apparently when crocodiles come out to play in the surf.

Ceri said to me the other day, maybe you should watch out for crocodiles and I thought.... "hmm I've never heard of any surfers ever being attacked by crocodiles.... " When we were driving north up the coast, across one of the swollen rivers, Ceri spotted a 8 foot monster on the riverbank. The noise she made was a bit like this: " eeeewwwwwwwaaauuuuugggghhhh".

Inspired by her croc spot, Ceri did some research and found out that on the beach I surfed 2 days ago, Hermosa beach, a croc bit a surfers leg. check out this link. http://www.surfingthemag.com/news/surfing-pulse/crocodile-attack-costa-rica-surfer-092508/

But parents!! Don't worry, we won't be surfing anywhere near rivermouths and we will keep a sharp eye out for the crocs. Also these attacks are extremely rare!!! I repeat, DON'T WORRY.... because even if we did lose a leg, we could still surf, like this amazing chap in Bali!

Machu Pichu and the Inca's

Our visit to Machu Pichu was unbelievable, a fitting climax to a fantastic 3 weeks in Peru. More than anything, I was amazed by the Inca civilization... they were a very clever bunch. Have a look on our flickr to see pictures of Machu Pichu. http://www.flickr.com/photos/ceriandjiro/sets/72157608033086994/

Here are some of the things I found most interesting:

- The Inca's had no writing system, so they relied heavily on oral communication. They devised a system of relay runners who could transport a message 250km in one day. This was vital as the Inca empire was HUGE. It stretched from Ecuador in the north to Argentina in the South, Peru, Chile and most of Bolivia in the middle. In just 14 days, a message could be sent the entire 3600km that the empire stretched north to south.

-The Inca never invented the wheel. But they also had no draught animals to pull anything so they didn't miss out on too much. They also never invented the arch, but they did built the most advanced Suspension bridges and were by far the best stone masons in the world. They cut huge blocks of granite using harder stone from meteorites.

Hmmmmmm. Look at the corners on that.

-Machu Pichu, which was never found by the Spanish Conquistadors, was actually a University where elite students learnt cutting edge agricultural, architectural and engineering skills.

They built tiered terraces for experimental farming. Amazingly, each of these terrraces has its own micro climate. By using rocks with varying degrees of porosity (that is a word, I just checked), and different soil types they could have one terrace with soil of 17c and another of 20c, for example. And they could therefore find optimum growing conditions. Genius!

-The Inca empire was only approx 150 years old when the Spanish first invaded in 1529. Within those years they built an Empire of about 12 million people, through military conquest, but primarily through peaceful assimilation.

Lesson over, you can go play now!!

An ode to Bill Bryson

For those who have read Bill Brysons' 'A walk in the woods' - in which he describes his time walking the Appalachian trail in the US you'd be surprised how long on a 60 mile hike a few newly acquainted strangers can maintain a conversation about such a book whilst trying to take their minds off the ridiculous altitude, resultant lack of oxygen and the all too apparent fact that there is only one way to hike - all day - UP!! In case you are wondering the answer is about 6 hours!

Let me begin this blog entry by updating you as to our whereabouts. We arrived in Cuzco, capital of the Inca Empire and gateway to Machu Pichu and the Sacred Valley. We flew in from Lima having taken a night bus from Trujillo, a 9 hour journey on business class-esq seats, so comfy in fact that when we arrived I for one urged to driver to drive around the block for another hour so I wouldn't have to peel myself out of my oh so comfortable seat!! (Jiro was making grunting sounds which I have accepted as meaning he would not have said no to such an event occurring!!)

So, in Cuzco we arrive, get dropped off at the wrong hostel after checking several (hundred) times the driver was sure.

Us: "Casa de la Gringo 2, you know?"

Him: Si senor, Casa de la Gringo"

Us: "2, no 1"

Him: "Si, Si Casa de la Gringo"

Yeah right! Number 1 was where we were told to get out of the cab and across a completely land locked city, high in the mountains with surf boards we walked. A few comments sent our way - "where's the surf?" etc. Grrrrr!!!

Mini drama and mild embarrassment behind us Cuzco is a magnificent city, perched high in the Andes (3300m above sea-level) with architecture from both the Incas and the Spanish.

We took on the tour of the Cathedral, a building which the Spanish after conquering Cuzco from the Inca's built on top of their palace and constructed with stones from a nearby Inca site which they deconstructed. However despite it's jaded history it was impressive in a gaudy sort of way. The Spanish in their colonisation of the Inca's realised they had to talk their language (the Incas did not read or write) so commissioned a painting of the last supper in which Jesus and his disciples are eating the Peruvian delicacy, Cuy or as we better know it Guinea pig! Yummy! Also, Judas is Peruvian, that aught to get all the Inca's to convert?!?!?

After a couple of days getting used to the altitude and many breathless and heart pounding climbs up the steep hill to our hotel we started our hike to Machu Pichu, not wanting to follow the crowd (are we loners?!) we joined a small group on the Salkantay trek. 11 of us in total as opposed the 400 who start the Inca Trail daily. Day one started with a 4 am start followed by an 18km hike, mostly uphill, gaining about 1000m in elevation at a starting altitude of 2800m. The terrain was arid to say the least and we were covered head to toe in dust. But the vistas were spectacular.

Our goal for day 1 was to position ourselves for the climb up the Salkantay pass, we arrived in time to watch the sun set over the peak (an altitude of over 6000m). Just beautiful!

That night was freezing! I personally slept in 5 tops, 2 with hoods, 1 hat, 3 pairs of trousers, 2 socks and gloves. Toasty Warm! And, for the record, incase you are thinking wimp! Jiro had 2 hats, 3 jumpers, trousers and 2 pairs of socks. Like I said it was FREEZING!! Despite the cold our chef, that's right, this is luxury camping, our chef had made us fresh pancakes, porridge and cups of tea. Mmmmmm!!!!! The hike this morning was tough, the toughest I have ever done, reaching an altitude of 4600m/15,000ft. To put this into perspective, that is higher than someone will get when skydiving, higher than a light aircraft will fly due to an inability to pressurise the cabin. High, with little oxygen! A huge thank you to Amanda for our Mountain sickness remedy. Really kept me going! And, a far sight better than chewing on Coca leaves, which even when mixed with Banana resin (the catalyst) are still disgusting! We generously handed out ours to passing Peruvians who lapped up the offer!

Our intrepid guide Freddie decided we should all try a new route along the ridge "because its a flat walk once you get up there!". It was far from it. A 60-80ft sheer drop either side of a paper thin ridge for about 1 mile. Slow work!!

After lunch, and yes, that's right, 4 courses prepared by our chef, was all down hill through the cloud forest, in fact the following day was much the same, but with a stop of at some hot springs, beautiful and our first chance for a wash in days. Eeewww, stinky!! This is also the day Jiro finally got to put his new Swiss Army Knife to use. He whittled himself a walking stick, after realising it is near impossible to saw through a wood knot (the hardest part of wood - in the words of the carpenter hiking with us "he'll figure it out soon!") he finaly smoothed the stick, removed all the bark and added a thumb hole. Kept him quiet for hours and gave me the chance to finish my book :o) It was a beautifuk stick (can sticks be beautiful?!?!) but unfotunately it was not allowed into Machu Pichu or on our flight back to Lima. RIP stick :o(

It rains in the rain forest! A lot!!! This is in fact the Amazon basin and bugs were as annoying as you can imagine. A fly called the Borrachuda fly bites, draws blood, leaves you bleeding then leaves a sore that itches to an eye watering degree. In fact so potent is the bite that it almost ended the Spanish conquest of the area as troops were mauled by the blasted bug. Any mosquito can only dream of leaving a itch on it's victim like this.

Day 4 of the hike and we get our first view of Machu Pichu, unfortunately it was cloudy!

The peak in the very centre of the above photo is Machu Pichu mountain and the ruin above is on a hilltop opposite. The Incas used the outpost for communication, using mirrors and sunlight to communicate - early mobile phone communication!! The butterflies I found fascinating they were all on the ground in big groups, I couldn't say whether they are eating, sleeping or dying but I was very grateful for the display. Such delicate and beautiful creatures.

All in all the hike was incredible, the porters who carried all our belongings, the chef and the guide created a once in a lifetime experience. I can't recommend doing it enough. Ok, so for those who like their home comforts you do have to camp, but(!) they porters carry and put up your tent, you arrive to a bowl of warm water to wash in, and a 4 course meal prepared and served in your campsite. Luxurious!!

Peru, the land of potatoes

We arrived in Peru after 3 whirlwind weeks in the UK. The plan was to head straight to our friends, Dan and Tammy who live in the north west, in a town on the coast called Huanchaco. On the 10 hour bus ride north I learned a few things about Peruvians: They like to start building brick walls and houses and stop halfway through. Most houses are one story but have ugly metal struts sticking into the air like hairs out a mole.... just in case they want to build higher in the future, or get the money to do so. I also saw that the whole of west Peru is desert- dry, sandy, barren with huge cactus (cactae?) and high cliffs plunging into the pacific. I also sat through 9 hours straight of Mel Gibson films, in Spanish and at full volume.

The next day we grabbed our surfboards and headed to Chicama, famous for being the longest wave in the world. With perfect conditions, it can be surfed up to 2km, which in surfing terms is just unbelievable. When we got there it was about 3-5 foot and we surfed waves up to around 300m, which was still longer than any wave i have ever surfed. Instead of paddling back to the starting point, most people get out and walk. It was a perfect morning and just Dan, me and Ceri in the water.

The rest of the week, went like this: wakeup, surf, have lunch, have spanish lessons, surf, have dinner, play cards, sleep. When the waves werent so good we explored the nearby city of Trujillo, which had some interesting colonial buildings. To get around, we caught Collectivos, which are little minibuses that shuttle back and forth between places, and cram about 25 people in a space designed for 8.

The area of Peru we were heading for was home to the most successful pre-Inca civilization in the America's, the Chimu and M0che. They built huge adobe cities and were a pretty advanced lot. The Temple of the Sun and Moon were huge Pyramids, that have been mostly destroyed over time, but you can still get a feel for how impressive they were.

The surf got bigger towards the end of the week and Dan and I got some great waves. The last session was the best, 7-9 foot waves and just the two of us out there surfing until it was too dark to see.