An ode to Bill Bryson

For those who have read Bill Brysons' 'A walk in the woods' - in which he describes his time walking the Appalachian trail in the US you'd be surprised how long on a 60 mile hike a few newly acquainted strangers can maintain a conversation about such a book whilst trying to take their minds off the ridiculous altitude, resultant lack of oxygen and the all too apparent fact that there is only one way to hike - all day - UP!! In case you are wondering the answer is about 6 hours!

Let me begin this blog entry by updating you as to our whereabouts. We arrived in Cuzco, capital of the Inca Empire and gateway to Machu Pichu and the Sacred Valley. We flew in from Lima having taken a night bus from Trujillo, a 9 hour journey on business class-esq seats, so comfy in fact that when we arrived I for one urged to driver to drive around the block for another hour so I wouldn't have to peel myself out of my oh so comfortable seat!! (Jiro was making grunting sounds which I have accepted as meaning he would not have said no to such an event occurring!!)

So, in Cuzco we arrive, get dropped off at the wrong hostel after checking several (hundred) times the driver was sure.

Us: "Casa de la Gringo 2, you know?"

Him: Si senor, Casa de la Gringo"

Us: "2, no 1"

Him: "Si, Si Casa de la Gringo"

Yeah right! Number 1 was where we were told to get out of the cab and across a completely land locked city, high in the mountains with surf boards we walked. A few comments sent our way - "where's the surf?" etc. Grrrrr!!!

Mini drama and mild embarrassment behind us Cuzco is a magnificent city, perched high in the Andes (3300m above sea-level) with architecture from both the Incas and the Spanish.

We took on the tour of the Cathedral, a building which the Spanish after conquering Cuzco from the Inca's built on top of their palace and constructed with stones from a nearby Inca site which they deconstructed. However despite it's jaded history it was impressive in a gaudy sort of way. The Spanish in their colonisation of the Inca's realised they had to talk their language (the Incas did not read or write) so commissioned a painting of the last supper in which Jesus and his disciples are eating the Peruvian delicacy, Cuy or as we better know it Guinea pig! Yummy! Also, Judas is Peruvian, that aught to get all the Inca's to convert?!?!?

After a couple of days getting used to the altitude and many breathless and heart pounding climbs up the steep hill to our hotel we started our hike to Machu Pichu, not wanting to follow the crowd (are we loners?!) we joined a small group on the Salkantay trek. 11 of us in total as opposed the 400 who start the Inca Trail daily. Day one started with a 4 am start followed by an 18km hike, mostly uphill, gaining about 1000m in elevation at a starting altitude of 2800m. The terrain was arid to say the least and we were covered head to toe in dust. But the vistas were spectacular.

Our goal for day 1 was to position ourselves for the climb up the Salkantay pass, we arrived in time to watch the sun set over the peak (an altitude of over 6000m). Just beautiful!

That night was freezing! I personally slept in 5 tops, 2 with hoods, 1 hat, 3 pairs of trousers, 2 socks and gloves. Toasty Warm! And, for the record, incase you are thinking wimp! Jiro had 2 hats, 3 jumpers, trousers and 2 pairs of socks. Like I said it was FREEZING!! Despite the cold our chef, that's right, this is luxury camping, our chef had made us fresh pancakes, porridge and cups of tea. Mmmmmm!!!!! The hike this morning was tough, the toughest I have ever done, reaching an altitude of 4600m/15,000ft. To put this into perspective, that is higher than someone will get when skydiving, higher than a light aircraft will fly due to an inability to pressurise the cabin. High, with little oxygen! A huge thank you to Amanda for our Mountain sickness remedy. Really kept me going! And, a far sight better than chewing on Coca leaves, which even when mixed with Banana resin (the catalyst) are still disgusting! We generously handed out ours to passing Peruvians who lapped up the offer!

Our intrepid guide Freddie decided we should all try a new route along the ridge "because its a flat walk once you get up there!". It was far from it. A 60-80ft sheer drop either side of a paper thin ridge for about 1 mile. Slow work!!

After lunch, and yes, that's right, 4 courses prepared by our chef, was all down hill through the cloud forest, in fact the following day was much the same, but with a stop of at some hot springs, beautiful and our first chance for a wash in days. Eeewww, stinky!! This is also the day Jiro finally got to put his new Swiss Army Knife to use. He whittled himself a walking stick, after realising it is near impossible to saw through a wood knot (the hardest part of wood - in the words of the carpenter hiking with us "he'll figure it out soon!") he finaly smoothed the stick, removed all the bark and added a thumb hole. Kept him quiet for hours and gave me the chance to finish my book :o) It was a beautifuk stick (can sticks be beautiful?!?!) but unfotunately it was not allowed into Machu Pichu or on our flight back to Lima. RIP stick :o(

It rains in the rain forest! A lot!!! This is in fact the Amazon basin and bugs were as annoying as you can imagine. A fly called the Borrachuda fly bites, draws blood, leaves you bleeding then leaves a sore that itches to an eye watering degree. In fact so potent is the bite that it almost ended the Spanish conquest of the area as troops were mauled by the blasted bug. Any mosquito can only dream of leaving a itch on it's victim like this.

Day 4 of the hike and we get our first view of Machu Pichu, unfortunately it was cloudy!

The peak in the very centre of the above photo is Machu Pichu mountain and the ruin above is on a hilltop opposite. The Incas used the outpost for communication, using mirrors and sunlight to communicate - early mobile phone communication!! The butterflies I found fascinating they were all on the ground in big groups, I couldn't say whether they are eating, sleeping or dying but I was very grateful for the display. Such delicate and beautiful creatures.

All in all the hike was incredible, the porters who carried all our belongings, the chef and the guide created a once in a lifetime experience. I can't recommend doing it enough. Ok, so for those who like their home comforts you do have to camp, but(!) they porters carry and put up your tent, you arrive to a bowl of warm water to wash in, and a 4 course meal prepared and served in your campsite. Luxurious!!