This is the second time I have written this entry, first attempt was a couple of days ago but unfortunately the computer obviously thought it was rubbish so shut down...well, I will have the alst laugh and here is my second attempt...Mwah ha ha ha ha!
What have we done recently? Well the week goes something like this.....surf, beach, decide whether to have the classic magnum or the vanilla/Choco cornetto, surf, eat, watch DVD, have a beer with friends, surf, beach, watch international Surf competition.......it's tough I hear you sigh :o). heres world no. 1 kelly slater surfing our beach.
What have we done recently? Well the week goes something like this.....surf, beach, decide whether to have the classic magnum or the vanilla/Choco cornetto, surf, eat, watch DVD, have a beer with friends, surf, beach, watch international Surf competition.......it's tough I hear you sigh :o). heres world no. 1 kelly slater surfing our beach.
A few times this week we have hopped aboard our trusty steed again and headed to the Bukit peninsula (area where the majority of world class reef breaks are) also plenty of palm tree lined beaches. Jiro has surfed Balangan a few times, and if I was to even consider getting in based on my current ability (or lack thereof) I would need my head examining!!! Some of the waves that roll in are like freight trains; at least 10ft on the face and barrelling.
I see a few small sets and think to my self "I can do this", get prepared to go out and POW! in they come, waves that as you lie in the water looking up they look like they want to eat you and reunite you with terrafirma that lies below it's watery depths. No thanks! Jiro is loving it, clearly doesn't have the same irrational fears as me...even tries to convince me it "not that big". Hmmmmm......Got a fat lip at the moment because of one of these such sets :o(Sitting on the sidelines is not all bad, I chill in Warungs (local restaurants) take some pictures, lie on the beach and read, chat to other surfers (inparticular Ozzies). Have heard some great stories recently. I will divulge a couple of shark based ones.....Rich don't be scared :o) I recommend asking Ozzie surfers if they have ever encountered a shark. The answers go something like this:
1. Not really, well you know, I was in the water the day that guy got eaten by a great white last year, surfing the same beach, didn't see it though. They're not the ones to worry about, it's the Bronze wailers (unsure of spelling) you need to watch for, they don't eat you, but they'll take a good chunk, not too bad. This was calmly relayed to me. "WHAT?!?!?!"
2. Yeah, I saw a Great White once, was surfing at dusk on my own on a beach near Sydney, a huge set rolled in and I saw a shadow in one of the waves, as it got closer I saw a 30ft Great White staring at me, must have been an old one as he had loads of scars......".WHAT?!?! you were close enought to notice?!?!"
As Ozzies would say: "pretty oridinary" experiences!!! WHATEVER!!!

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